Final Collection

In KENZO collection in the previous seasons, various color principles were commly applied inorder to create the energetic, romantic and feminine impression.They included principle of resemblance, balance of color, harmony of color, simultanerously, achromatic as well as analogous color schemes appear almost in every collection. Cultural influence or theme are always carried out through out the collections and which give a huge influence on the use of color.

The corporate colour of Kenzo is Red. It may be due to repretation of Japan or interpretation of Kenzo Takada's energetic attitude toward life. Therefore, designers of Kenzo apply red onto the garments every time, which is not on whole collection, so as to link up outfits together forming a complete collection.

Base on the characteristics of color usage of Kenzo , a color coordination and 6 outfits as a complete collection are created. First of all, Kenzo must have a bright red(Pantone®18-1445) in every season. Also, Kenzo must play with monochromic scheme in every fall/winter collection with contains black(Pantone7U), white(Pantone485C) and grey(Pantone®16-0713), grey is a variable color base on specific color theme or fashion trend. So, this time, refer to the nature of Kenzo color usage, a warm, light, redish-grey is used.

Furthermore, the color usage of this collection was inspired by a portrait from the Ming Dynasty (Graphic on the left-hand side). Because Kenzo is a designer brand which is keen on implying different culture as well as expressing the passion of life into apparel products through the performance of color. The interpretation of this idea is that Chinese ancient costumes played an important role in influenceing, or may be the forerunner of Japanese Kimono. Moreover, ancients in the Ming Dynasty were fastidious about their appearance and clothing. And which seems has a few of similarity with Kenzo and its customers who enjoys life and look for qualityof living.

Further information on costumes in the Ming Dynasty: http://www.epochtimes.com/b5/1/8/28/c4280.htm

These tertiary colors follow an achromatic color scheme which is a key color characteristic of Kenzo, varying from yellow orange to violet. 4 hues are used together with 2 values of blue and pink, they are indigo(Pantone®19-4026), coq(Pantone®3145U), red earth(Pantone®16-1516) and jelly(Pantone®17-1753). Other colors include astroturf (Pantone®16-6444), groundnut(Pantone®17-1040) and mud(Pantone®19-1420). They are all in medium to low chroma which give a warm energetic feeling for the coming season, rather than all black or chocolate colors in winter.

How the colors match with each other and take all the spakle out of the collection?Let take a look of the following garments and the color principles applied.

1st Outfit

Using not only the balance of color but also the proportion of color, intermingling help balance distribution of colors among each other. A large area of white is compare to a small proportion of bright red floweral prints with indigo as the color of leaves gining a contrast to outstand the floweral prints. And groundnut(Pantone®17-1040) underlayer emphasis the energetic feeling of the coat.

2nd Outfit
Colors help balance the color weight and overall stediness.

Sequence of order appears on the legging.

3rd Outfit
This garment seems like a top view of different flower fields garthering in the same place and give an energetic, cheerful feeling.

Principle of novelty is applied in this garment because Mr Kenzo Takada has been renowned as an inovative who succefully drew people's attention and appreciation of his new and unexpected color combination.

4th Outfit
Emphasis of color is aroused by applying bright red on the neckline and sleeves with astroturf (Pantone®16-6444) to outline the interesting knitting pattern of the dress.

5th Outfit

Combination of these 4 colors balance each other and even satisfy the principle of familiarity, while the lower chroma of indigo harmonize with the other 3 colors as the floral print.

6th Outfit
Monochromatic garments are the basic items of Kenzo. Sequence of achromatic colors of the whole garment, leads the eye in the direction of progression. A sense of energy is added by matching a pair of high heels in mud(Pantone®19-1420).

Overall collection

The whole collection follows the principle of order including achromatic color matchign scheme, balance of color, so that there is a wide variation of color matching with analogous colors but not affecting the harmony of the total look. And thus, it helps to give a feminine, exquisite Kenzo Japanese patten combinding with European silhouette and knitting technique.

Development

Each outfit are tested in at least 4 different color combination. Finally, 6 best outfits among others were picked up and summarized to form a colleciton, which are most representative to KENZO's style and characteristics, most harmonious in color use and with other 5 outfits

Self-Reflection

Lastly, I would like that I have become much more sensitive to color after this semester which was quite unexpected. This ability applied in my daily life automatically, say like when I dress up every morning or to appreciate other's mix and match clothings. My brain is started estimating the color coordination intuitively. The evauation is now more logical and thorough than before. But my ability is limited and there will be a long journey for me to know about Color more deeply.

Class Excercise no.6 - Consumers' lifestyles & mass customization

Class Excercise no.5 - Fashio Forecasting and thedriving force of fashion

Class Exercise no.4- Designing color colletions

The color Family used here is Balance of Color. The variety of the hue and values help to distribution of color among each other according to color weight helps overall steadiness. The intensities also convey similar moods and gining enough variety for interest but also avoiding boredom and conflict.

Final Selection

Addition information for the Kenzo collection

After the tutial class of presenting my work, Pantone no. were missing. Here show a conclusion in color usage of Kenzo Spring & Summer 2009.

Class Exercise no.3 - Color in Apparel

Here shows the variation in color usage in apparel according to different period of time.

Interior color design

Description:

Applying the both balanace of color and harmony of color, the interior is colored in indigo(Pantone®19-4028), Wine (Pantone®484C), Bright Yellow (Pantone®3945M), White (Pantone®11-0601), Groundnut(Pantone®17-1410) and Forest Green (Pantone®7490M).

It is desinged with an indigo,"heavy weight" floor which project a calm feeling to match with a white leopard skin to give a sence of elegance. Wine and lustous yellow merchandise help to draw customers attention and add an interest to the store atomsphere. And thus, the mood would be enhanced to be more energetic and cheerful.

Groupmates work on Kenzo

Here link to groupmates' web blog containing research on Kenzo's collections in past few years.

1. F/W08 http://colorandfashiontrends.blogspot.com/2008/10/blog-post.html
2. 2006 http://07346647d.blogspot.com/
3. 2005 http://07091199d.blogspot.com/
4. S/S04 http://07187209d.blogspot.com/
5. F/W04 http://07336214d.blogspot.com/

Kenzo Designers I - Kenzo Takada

Born in Hemeji Japan in 1939, Kenzo Takada used just his first name when he launched his own label.
Mixing Japanese sensibilities and balance with European elegance, He studied at the Bunka College of Fashion. He worked in Japan after graduationa and moved to Paris in 1965.
Kenzo's designs are distinctive. One of trademark designs in incorporating the elements of the kimono, the Japanese traditional dress in modern clothes.
Kenzo is a a great colorist and a fine tailor, mixing multi-cultural aspects and converging them into one.
Kenzo menswear was designed by Roy Krejberg after Kenzo's retirement until December 2003 when the designer left the house. His last collection was shown during the Fall 2003 Paris Menswear season held last January 2003.
Gilles Rosier designed the womenswear line after Kenzo retired. He left the house in 2003.
After Rosier, Antonio Marras was hired as Creative Director for womenswear and he debuted in Paris during the Fall 2004 season.

Source: http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/kenzo/default.asp

Theme of Kenzo Spring 2009

The designer, Antonio Marras, invited his audience into a storybook fashion fantasy, inspired by 'Alice in Wonderland' and Victorian flower-collectors, in his spring/summer 2009 collection for Kenzo, at the Paris prêt-à-porter season.

	Alice in Wonderland: Storybook fantasy at the Kenzo spring/summer show

Bouquets of flowers, botanical embroideries and satin, chiffon and gabardine in mossy and pastel shades, recreated the dreamy sauntering of "Alice" in a sun-withered garden.

Against a set of larger-than-life wildflower books, piled up as if on a drawing-room table, the models paraded in watercolour florals and brighter, herbaceous border-patterns. They resembled "flower fairies", with their piled-up hair strewn with feathers and their faces made-up with sparkle eye-shadows and shimmering rose blush-on.

Smock-dresses came with delicate bodices embroidered with crystals and pearls. Longer, empire-line dresses, with rise-and-fall hemlines which disclosed petticoats of lace and flounces, had shoulder-straps embellished with tiny shells and beads.

Puffball dresses were crocheted in gold-tinged yarn, scattered with sequins, over tutu-underskirts, while jewel-embroidered knits were worn with loose-cut trousers, tapering to the ankle

Article from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2008/10/04/efkenzo2104.xml

Kenzo Spring 2009 collection

It's Kenzo Spring'09 collection presented in Paris Fashion Week. Undoubtly, Antonio Marras take on flowerness or Spring's romance.
This is an abstracted color range, every garment follows this rule - harmony of color though out this collection, clothings and accessories were in a good coordination of color matching. They are all tertiary colors and vary in chrome and value. Refer to the color wheel, these are analogous colors.
So, it gives a strong sense of harmony.

















These two photos were from the same collection of the ending of fashion show, just because clothings were different in chroma of brown, still follow the analogous colors formula!















Moreover, designer skillfully arranged proportion of color and pattern to maintain agreement of feeling. Take this dress as an example, although dark color placed on top with light lime green, sheer fabric, this didn't sabotage the balance of weight . Transition of color were not slided in solid color, but in the case, colors slided smooth with patterns between the dress top and hem.

Without exception, Antonio dress in the same way

All photos from
http://content.coutorture.com/2202705

Kenzo Fall '08 collection

It's a collection using over 80% proportion achromatic hue and the remaining portion in red and turquoise color and which emphasized on volumious style and bulky knit wear.

All from http://www.tranism.com/weblog/2008/03/kenzo-fallwinte.html

Other reseach:

http://www.fashion.com.hk/lux_week08_830_kenzo.htm

Catwalk video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsAZ5gZDLXw&NR=1
http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/2008/fall/main/europe/womenrunway/kenzo/

Interior design

Conclusion from research studies:

• Perception of spacioucness is not attribute to specific colors, but the brightness or darkness of a color.
• Spatial impressions are highly influened by contrast effects, particularly brightness difference between objects and background.

Fehrman,K.R and Fehrman, C. (2004) Color: The Secret Influence (2nd Ed.), New Jersey: Prentice Hall

Principle of color scheme

My coloring exercise in class after learing the principle of color scheme.
I used variety of hue, light and dark vaules, bright and dull intensities to balance the color scheme. And the colors included 6 tertiary colors such as cobalt, magenta, lavender, amber, violet.

Color Scheme formulas

This is a Burberry checks pattern.

A check pattern of tartans.





from www.carolinatartan.com/colors.htm









Here are some examples of how to match with the check patterns

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-418864/New-pattern-season--tartan-twist.html

Color wheel and colors theory

It's a simple, basic color wheel just for me to learn more words used to decribe colors.
http://www.graphic-design.com/Photoshop/color_cast/visible_color_spectrum.html

http://www.malanenewman.com/browser_safe_color_wheel.html

I found this website very useful for my learning. It simply summarized the color theory with a useful color wheel.